Catching the Wave
To start out, paddle your surfboard to around waist to chest deep water. Remember that you are going to be learning how to surf in the whitewater portion of the wave.
While sitting or laying flat on your board, you are going to be facing the ocean, watching the waves come in. Wait until you see a section of whitewater approaching you and then turn the nose of your board toward shore and start paddling.
Keep paddling until you feel the wave propelling you and the surfboard, almost like it’s lifting you, without you having to paddle. Once you stop paddling, it’s time to stand up on your board and ride the wave.
You are going to have to practice this over and over. Don’t get frustrated though. Remember that every surfer has been through this, even the professionals. Before you know it, you will be able to stand up and catch a wave with ease.